Frequently asked Questions
Please read the following FAQ it will answer 90% of all
I'm often called on. If you don't see your question here
or need more specific
information don't hesitate to call. Many Thanks!
#1: I want to send my gun in to get
tuned and I want to get as much power out of it as possible?
My #1 goal when tuning a gun is to have a
pleasant shooting gun that will stay that way for a long
If your primary goal is to have a gun that
will shoot peak velocity right after the tune, I shouldn't be
your first choice. I could do it but the end result is a
gun that will shoot harshly and develop spring noise in short
order. Sometimes a higher power spring can be fitted but
with the tolerance on current production gun's compression
chambers, this will often give less not more power.
Until your gun is here and I work on it I can't tell you what
it will shoot. I will say this, most guns sent in for
high power tunes are guns that never shot at advertised
velocity due to bad spec receivers and the owners is hoping
tuning it will be the silver bullet that fixes it once and for
all. Almost every time, it is not and the end result is
something no one is happy with.
With all that said, most that ask this
question need to get the next model up.
#2 What is buttoning pistons?
What will it do for me?
Piston buttoning is where shallow holes are
milled into the piston and Delrin "buttons" are inserted and
then lathe turned fitted to match the inside diameter of the
receiver of the rifle. It makes the gun cock smoother
and it eliminates metal to metal contact so as to eliminate
galling on guns with soft pistons or receivers. It will
often cut down on vibration on many rifles where the piston to
receiver fit is loose.
#3 What is a good gun to get nowadays?
Recommending a air rifle is like recommending
a car or truck. Personal taste weigh in too much for me
to comment. It's best for you to try them out yourself
and see what you like. In the past I've recommended guns
only to have people complain. I recommended a TX to one
fellow several years back only to have him complain about how
hard it was to load and how heavy it was. I had one guy
that couldn't handle the recoil of an R7 (go figure).
Everyone is worried about making the wrong
decision, but soliciting opinions very rarely helps.
Often it just confuses things because everyone else's
priorities are usually different than your own. Try the
stuff out and form your own opinions. Try FT shoots or
one of the airgun shows if possible. Contact a dealer
before going if you know they are going to be there and want
to try something specific out.
The Weihrauch line of rifles are always a safe
bet and that is why I have chosen to build most of my business
on them. They hold their value. Buy quality and
you will always have quality. The difference in cost
between quality and second best is quickly forgotten once
you've spent your money.
#4 How do I pay you?
You aren't required to send money until the
rifle is near completion, but preferably
with money ;-) Checks or Postal Money Orders are
fine. Checks are most often cashed on arrival, but not
always. If you have concerns about your gun actually
arriving, waiting on the check to clear is not a good way of
checking to see if it has. Just give me a call to check
on your rifles arrival on the day it's supposed to
arrive. Please read my Helpful
Info page on turn around time before calling about how
long it will be once it arrives.
#5 I want to send you my HZ2312 for a
tune. I want the gun to shoot 900fps with 8.4 JSB
pellets with little to no recoil. I shot *****'s gun the
other day and that's what his does.
There is no way "Anyone" can tell you what
your gun is going to shoot sight unseen, even if he knows what
spring is going to be used and the caliber of the gun.
There are just too many variables from rifle to rifle.
Some guns that shot in the mid 900's with a Maccari T-Spring
on one run are hard pressed to shoot 820 to 860 fps with all
the identical parts on another run. Receiver and
compression tube sealing being the major culprit.
If you send me a gun with a detailed list of what is and isn't
acceptable velocity wise, you leave me no choice but to bow
out. There is no way I can guaranty what your gun will
shoot without seeing it first. If you send it wanting to
see what can be done with your particular gun, I have no
problem with that and I'll be happy to help.
#6 How do I make a seal for my gun and what
material do you use. (General how to questions)
I get several of these
requests a week. I've spent lots of time and money
finding out what will and won't work. The only way for
me to recover my expenses and time is to sell what I have come
up with. There is also a good number of people that I
have helped in the past only to have them set up shop and
compete with me. With the size of this niche market it
just causes hard feelings when this happens. I'd rather
avoid that if possible.
#7 I've got a **** and it has
never shot as well as other guns I've tried of a similar
model. I want to send it in and get you to fix it up for
Every now and then a gun comes across my door
that has various issues that leave it sub par. That's
not to say that it can't be made nicer but most of the
time it can only be improved.
Other times the owner compares their gun to
other rifles they think are similar and they aren't happy with
it. That is a design issue and often can't be addressed
in a tune.
slightly large bores that have had the barrels chopped to
unreasonable lengths is another issue. No matter how
much someone brags on the forums that his was OK, they
generally increase the recoil by as much as a third if not
more. Your basically making a rifle that is semi-dry
firing. Seals wont last as long and spring life is
reduced buy as much as 50%. Why do I say that? I
often get these rifles with the owners hoping that rechoking
the barrel or other tricks are going to pull a rabbit out of
the hat. I've seen too many over the years to
count. While choking helps, it's often a band aid
approach. Guns with good tolerances in the compression chamber
and good tight barrel bores can be cut with out much problem
though. The rifle would have to be checked before any
such work would be done though.
#8 Can you tune my Webley Kodiak?
I no longer do any work on the Webley line of
#9 I'm in Canada and want to buy parts
for my CZ 630/631/634. I would be nice if I could get
the power up on it some.
I no longer offer parts or services for the
little Slavia rifles.
#10 I want to buy a high
performance seal for my gun. How much?
All seals are made in house on a per gun
basis. Gun tolerances vary so much from gun to gun that
a one size fits all approach on a high performance seal won't
work. ADV seals are only available on in house tunes.
#11 My Guns accuracy is off. I
want to send it in to get a tune.
There are many many variables that can make a
guns accuracy suffer. Doing a
tune is the least likely way of fixing accuracy issues.
Generally something else is wrong. Often
it's something as simple as a dirty barrel or bad
pellets. Most of the time a gun is sent in for
inaccuracy, I can go out and shoot one hole groups with
pellets I have on hand. If the gun chronographs fairly
consistent with good pellets and the barrel is clean.
The most likely culprit is shooter error or stock securement.
#12 When I shoot my gun every now and
then it throws a shot low. Sometimes as much as a inch
at twenty yards.
Chronograph your gun. If it's fairly
stable, the spring and seals are OK. You've got another
problem. A inch drop at 20 yards can only happen with a
200 + fps drop in velocity if the powerplant were at
fault. Most likely bad pellets or inconsistent hold is
#13 I'm sending my gun in for a tune and
want the trigger tuned. I don't like the long first
stage, I want you to convert it to a single stage.
Most of the better European spring guns are
built with a two stage trigger. The fist stage you pull
up until it firms up and that should be the point that it's
about to break. Slightly more pressure and the trigger
will break and the gun will fire. Guns like the FWB124
and a few others have no sear engagement adjustment, only a
second stage let off point. It is impossible to adjust
these triggers for a single stage action. A new
trigger would have to be built from the ground up to do
it. On others like Beeman R series guns or Air Arms,
while it's possible to do so, you wind up with a gun that is
unsafe. The slightest wear in the trigger or hard bump
when the gun is cocked and it could go off when you least
expect it. It's a liability issue. I'd be sticking
a gun to my head to do it (Pun Intended) ;-)
#14 I'm tired of breaking springs in my
gun. I want to send it in to get it tuned and eliminate
All things mechanical will eventually wear
out. I've been using Jim Maccari's springs for
over twenty years and know Jim on a personal level. You
won't find longer lasting springs or a person more persistent
at looking to improve upon what he has. All things
mechanical will eventually need "maintenance"
though. As a general rule of thumb I rebuild my personal
guns every seven to ten thousand rounds. That said, I have
customers that have over ten thousand rounds on their guns
with no loss of performance. Most often it's more making
sure that the gun is sealing properly rather than the
spring. I can attribute these long lasting guns to good
sealing and the owner not abusing them. A tune that
fixes any sealing issues and replaces the spring with one of
higher quality will not only last lots longer than the factory
set-up but will be more enjoyable to shoot.
#15 I want to send in a gun for a tune
but I don't know if I should get the ADV or maccari kit
The kit install will have close to the same
firing characteristics of a ADV. The ADV will have
additional work that will make the gun cock smoother, have
less recoil. Basically, you ask yourself if you want
very nice or all the bells and whistles. Most of the ADV
tunes have the triggers reworked, piston buttoning and the
receiver precision honed. So your better off with the
ADV if you want those areas addressed.
#16 Why would/should I cut my barrel to
a shorter length?
Many people cut their barrel to a shorter
length to allow for more empty room when installing a carbine
length barrel sleeve. The reason being the gun will be
quieter with the extra dead air space. When using a
muzzle brake instead of a shroud it can make for a very very
short carbine barrel if that's what the customer wants.
If the work is done properly accuracy will not suffer and some
cases be slightly improved. In a good many cases
velocity falls off slightly when barrels are cut back.
It's rare that you get a increase in velocity. Some that
I've done have lost 20-50fps with a six inch cut. Some
didn't loose any. Adding the choke will also cut
15-20fps in some cases. Suffice to say, if your a
chronograph jockey ;-) you might loose power with a choke and
going with a shorter barrel.
#17 Do you tune or work on other guns
such as Gamo, Chinese, Russian etc. etc...
This depends on my work load. Most of
the time the answer is no if there is a heavy work load of
stuff I specialize in. When my work load is high I
usually limit the number of models or brands that are taken
in. It's not a reflection on the value of your gun, it's
a matter of the amount of time that's available to get
everything done. For example, some Gamo rifles I'll take
in if work is slow but if work load is high I won't take in
some German made guns if they are not some of my main
offerings listed on my pricing page or if they are older
obsolete rifles needing extra work to be made viable again.
#18 Can you sell me
a kit or parts for my TX200? Can you sell me parts or kits
for any of my guns?
I don't supply parts or kits for guns. Try Air
Headquarters. If they don't have them listed, they
are either in short supply or none existent.
#19 I can't log into your forum. When I
applied for membership it was denied.
Most that apply
never tell me who they are and never fill out their
profile. Those are the number one reasons. The forum
was originally set up as a service for my customers. It is
for previous customers who have bought rifles or had theirs
tuned. Not trying to be ugly, but that's what works best
for me and keeps the foolishness low.
#20 Can you site in my gun before sending
it back to me?
Yes I can, but it
probably won't be dead on for you when you get it back.
Everyone holds guns different and many times after shipping
the impact point will change, or the shooter may tilt the gun
slightly and think the reticule isn't level. The price is
listed on my Tune Price Page but it's often wasted
money. I'm fine with it but would rather not do it for
the previously mentioned problems. If you know the drill
I have no problem doing it though. I do have to charge
for the time spent though. One other thing to mention is
that scopes and stocks are the two items that shippers usually
break. Proper packing will go a long long way to keeping
either from happening but it's best to just leave scopes off
as they aren't needed when tuning your gun.
#21 Do I need to buy the parts from ARH
(Maccari) for you to tune my rifle?
everything needed when you have a ADV tune done to your
gun. I keep ARH springs and seals in stock. I no
longer offer a basic tune. If you want something similar
to a basic tune you can buy a kit from Maccari and I'll install
it with the proper lubes for $100 shipped back to you. $25
extra for oversize or heavy packages.
#22 I sent a email a week ago. Why
haven't I got a reply?
Simply because I can't keep up
with it for the most part.
If you have a question that needs
a fast answer, call. If you can't call I'm sorry about
being late replying. I'll try and be a little more swooft
about it but it's something that falls between the cracks when
I'm busy in the shop. If you can and have called in the
past, please continue doing things that way. I appreciate
#23 I'd like to get a custom stock for
my XXXXX. I see some of the ones in your gallery but I
want one like XXXX.
I no longer offer custom stocks
for rifles other than the custom rifles I occasionally offer
on my page. I also cannot recommend anyone that
might. Most that were are no longer doing it and the few
who are don't entertain "one off" projects. Try asking on some
of the more popular forums. More often than not you'll
find a hobbiest willing to take it on.
#24 I have a rifle I want to get tuned
but there is some rust on the rifle. I'll send it in for
a tune if you'll re-blue the action.
I no longer offer bluing
services. I takes too long for me to get to it and with
my regular work load being as high as it is, it's just one
more iron in the fire I can't deal with at this time. If
the rust or thin bluing is just on the barrel, installing a
barrel shroud is the most cost effective way of dealing with
#25 I was browsing your gallery and I
want to send my rifle in and get it customized like one of
those rifles in your gallery.
Some options like set/back
triggers and shrouds are available but I no longer take
customers rifles in for custom builds. The projects take
too long to complete with all the other work I have to do on
hand. If you want a custom rifle they will occasionally
be offered on my main page. I also no longer have a
waiting list for custom rifles. Most that have been added to
such list never purchased a rifle when their name came
up. I only occasionally build custom rifles when I'm
tuning similar rifles for customers and even then only if they
were already near completion.
#26 How long have you been tuning
I've been working on German
made rifles since 1992, but it was around 1994 that I started
doing custom tuning. My tuning was a side business until
1999 when it became too much for me to deal with. I took
a break from tuning for the public at large until 2002 and
then went full time with it in 2003 until currently.
#27 I want a muzzle brake that is ten
and a half inches long and fits a XXXX.
I do aluminum shrouds and
muzzle brakes in large batches about once or twice a
year. They are done to compliment my tuning services so
the design, shape and length are geared toward that end.
One off parts orders are just about never taken in on HardCoat
shrouds and brakes due to the long time between tooling up to
do another batch.
However, if you are wanting blued steel brakes, shrouds or
fastener kits for one of the rifles listed on my tuning page I
can occasionally do them but it might be a few weeks lead
#28 I'm going to send my rifle in and
want to send just the action. What's the best way to
I would prefer the stock be
attached. Sometimes it makes a difference in how the
trigger will be adjusted and without it I can't test the rifle
when done. The biggest issues with shipping is for it to
be in a sturdy enough box that when dropped at a angle it
won't fold easily, there is enough padding on the end that the
stock won't take the brunt of the force when dropped on end
and that the rifle is secure and cant move inside the
box. Usually double boxing and five inches of bubble
wrap rolled up in both ends or secured in a hard case and then
boxed. If the rifle can move at all it will eventually
"hammer" through the ends of the box with repeated handling by
#29 I want you to tune my rifle.
I want to get a lot more velocity but I want it to be smooth.
I can tune it keeping one or the other in mind "but" on many
have to choose to lean in one direction or the other. If
you tell me this I'm going to lean towards higher power not
smoothness. Past experience has taught me that if
someone mentions more velocity it is their #1 concern.
The result is always more cocking effort and recoil but will
not have any vibration.
Most everyone wants their rifle to perform like the next model
up. They want the R7/HW30 to perform like the HW50, the
HW50 to perform like the HW95/R9 and the HW95 to perform like
the HW80/R1. Every now and then I'm contacted by a
optimistic airgunner that wants to skip a model up! ;-)
Once you reach the upper limits of what a rifle was designed
for, the law of diminishing returns comes in. A rifle
with a 30lb cocking effort shooting shooting 14ftlbs will only
pick up another 40 or 50fps with a 10-15lb increase in cocking
effort and more often than not the recoil doubles or it
becomes very brash and harsh making the gun harder to
shoot. That added velocity might make your gun shoot a
half a inch flatter at 50 yards. On many it's not a good
trade off. Also, the harder a rifle is pushed the
shorter the life span of the parts. Like I said,
diminishing returns :-(
#30 I have a rifle that was tuned by
you several years ago but the owner that sold it to me lost
the tune card. I'm thinking about selling the rifle and
was wondering if you can you send me another tune card?
Once a rifle has left my shop I supply the person paying for
the tune with a card as a basic list of services
performed. Once the rifle leaves my shop I don't have
any control over what is in the rifle or what has happened to
it. If I have the original owners name I can verify if
it was here for a tune but after that it's up to the integrity
of the seller to verify if the rifle has been left in it's
tuned state as it was sent out by me. The
only way I can verify what's in it and send another card is
if the rifle is sent in for a refresh.
Just because someone has a card from me it doesn't mean I
actually did anything to the rifle. It's not uncommon
for people to sell rifles with one of my cards that was never
here to be worked on. It happens on the yellow forum and
other classifieds from time to time and when I see it I try
and point it out. Not long ago a person was selling a
rifle as being one of the rifles pictured in my gallery.
Even though it was obviously not the same rifle. If the
rifle is functioning like it should and the power isn't way
off you shouldn't have a problem selling the rifle, just give
the buyer a three day inspection. As far as a card being
some sort of provenance of having a tune done here it just
can't do that. Seller's integrity is where the rubber
meets the road in any sale of a used rifle with purported
I was thinking about getting my barrel cut back but my gun is
very very accurate now and I don't want to risk it
changing. What do you suggest?
If you're happy with the
accuracy of your rifle just have a shroud installed without
the cut work if you like the looks and durability of a
shroud. On a few "rare" occasions pellet preference will
change when you cut the barrel back. More often than not
accuracy is improved, but cutting a barrel back is more for
leaving dead space between the end of the barrel and the end
of the shroud. On higher power rifles it helps dampen
the discharge noise. On lower power rifles it's not
going to make much difference.
I'm going to send my
rifle in for tune work but I want you to use XX spring, XX
seal and use XX lube. I want XX number of piston buttons
spaced as per my directions.........
In the past when I received
requests like this I tried to as diplomatically as possible to
tell the person why some of it was not advisable and why I did
things the way I do them. Now not so much. The
bottom line is that if you don't trust my judgement or
abilities it would be best if you found someone else that you
do or learn to do the work yourself. I've been in
this long enough to see "the new wave" come and go only to
reappear on the forums decades later and everyone think it's
new. A lot of the "new" stuff is "old school" that
either didn't work out or not much different than a properly
done job. More often than not it's just different so
it's a selling point or a way for someone to look like a
#33 I want to get my rifle tuned and I
see you are right down the road from me. How about I
come by and watch you do it or just leave it with you. I
don't want to ship my rifle and risk it being damaged.
There was a time when I used to
do this. After many bad experiences my wife told me not
to let any more airgunners invite themselves to her house
again ;-) I don't have a storefront that people can come
and go. My business is based next to my home and I
usually have a backlog of work that doesn't allow me to drop
what I'm doing and put someone at the front of the line.
I've mentioned this to a few people in the past and they
became agitated when I wouldn't make a exception in their
case. I simply ask you to put yourself in my position. A
stranger is calling you up and inviting themselves to your
home and won't take no for and answer. What are the odds
they will be a gentleman and act right once they are
here? I can tell you from experience they never
do. The whole thing is sad really. Some of my
best, lifelong friends were made when I first started tuning
back in the early nineties but as time rolled on more and more
I had problems. If I went into detail about some of the
problems I've had in the past you would understand.
#34 Do you use glue on piston buttons?
No I don't. While they
are better than doing nothing, the only reason to use them if
if you don't have the equipment or ability to do a proper
job. This is one of those things where many like to say
they do the same work that I do but don't.
#35 I want to send my rifle in because
it lost power and there are some things broken or
missing. If you do your ADV tune will you replace or fix
everything that is broken or bent.
Sorry, the price of my ADV tune
reflects the costs of just doing tune work.
#36 Do you take drop shipments?
I would prefer that you receive
the rifle first and (1) See if you actually like the rifle and
(2) Inspect it for any damage. I will take drop
shipments but if the rifle is too heavy, difficult to cock or
the recoil is too much for you it would be best for you to
find that out before sending it in and spending a few hundred
dollars on it.
#37 I have a walnut stock that I can't
get the screws started in and once the action is installed the
trigger blade only comes down about half way in the opening in
the trigger guard. I'd like to have the stock checkered
while it's there.
Fitting on aftermarket stocks
is a problem on airguns and firearms alike. It's best to
let the vendor you purchased the stock from know about your
fit problems so they can address it on their pattern or in
their process. (Big hint here) Don't be combative
or keep mentioning what you paid for the stock ;-)
Absolute perfectly fitted stocks done by the best smiths costs
in the thousands not in the hundreds. Most are willing
to bend over backwards to help and see that you are happy so
long as you don't convince them to do otherwise ;-)
Checkering is best done on
dense dry wood. Wood that was grown fast due to lots of
watering (orchards or climate) will not checker well.
Most stock makers that checker their stocks avoid such wood
even though it may have brilliant colors and is very
inexpensive. That's why it's so cheap and more often
than not finds it way on airguns. If your stock is a
lower quality wood the checkering may be slightly fuzzy when
the job is done. That said I've seen fuzzy checkering on
#38 Do you ever have sales or discount
your tune pricing.
No. Nothing is worse than
purchasing something or having a service done only to see it
being offered for half price a few days or weeks later.
I understand running sales on parts that aren't going to move
unless there is a price drop but I'm not going to devalue my
work or lower my customers resale value on rifles or work
performed here. Some appreciate this and others
don't. I've found that the ones who don't usually aren't my customers anyway.
#39 What kind of lubricants should I
use an how often after you are done tuning a rifle for me?
The action internals are
lubricated with everything they will need for the life of the
parts. Any oil or lubricant added after the tune will
only degrade the lubricants used when the rifle is
tuned. A little oil on the cocking lever rivet every one
or two thousand rounds is about all that will be needed.
#40 Which FWB124 receivers are
so much a taper as being out of round and flat spots
that vary three to five thousandths.
There are two distinct ways FWB made the original 124
receivers. One was extruded and rarely have any issues
unless a corroded seal has set in the bottom of the
chamber too long and eroded the ID of the tube. The
other and more problematic build style was a two piece
receiver where a piece of tubing was plugged into the ID
of one end and the forks were machined into it. The two
piece tubing on some have the mentioned defects. You can
look at the receiver and see a thin line where the two
pieces meet on the outside tip of the forks and right at
the top of the cut out where the breech seal seals on
the receiver. Most of the early rifles up to 15,000 to
20,000 range have the two piece arrangement but once you
get into the mid 20,000 to mid 30,000 range I've seen
both, so it's not a matter of them completely switching
production at some point. The early two piece tubes
aren't a problem unless the defect is near the end of
the pistons travel and once the out of round chambers
are fixed they typically give better performance than
the extruded version due to the absence of the relief
that is needed in the bottom of the tube in the extruded
#41 I'm going to be sending
my HW30/R7 in for tune work. Is there any way to get a
little more power out of the rifle? Will you install a
stronger spring or kit if I send it in with the rifle?
I decided a long time ago not to set the
current R7/HW30's up with higher power springs. Since early on
people have been "shoe horning" in stouter springs into these
rifles trying to make them perform like the next model up. Since
the piston on this model isn't hardened , stouter springs
generally makes galling worse and the back of the piston eat out
where the cocking lever applies force to cock the rifle. On some
of the stouter springs I've seen installed even a dry fire or
two has dislodged the forks from the receiver on more than one
occasion. The 40-50 extra fps is soon forgotten when the rifle
is toast and it's not something I can build a reputation on over
the long term. Some of the older R7/HW30s used a spring that was
a "slightly" larger wire and had more coils. I have a
spring for those and it is the same spring I use for the older
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